Planting a Tree : step-by-step guide

               Planting trees is an easy and effective way to beautify your property, provide shade in summer and wind protection in winter and enhance privacy all while increasing real estate values at the same time. Since a tree is such a visible part of the landscape care must be taken to ensure proper growth conditions are maintained.  A tree is far more difficult - and expensive - to replace, once mature in the landscape, than most shrubs.  However, with some advance planning, trees too can be easily maintained. 

Choosing a Tree

 

The first step in tree selection is to determine the type of tree appropriate for your property and your needs.  Climate and soil play big roles.  A date palm might have a tough time surviving a Minneapolis winter, for example.  And a water-hungry willow would starve in the desert sands.  Make sure that the tree species you are considering can flourish in your local climate and soil conditions (designated hardiness zone).  And don’t forget some of these other important factors:

 

Matching tree to site is a key part of the tree selection process.  What is the size of the site on which your new tree or trees will be situated?  How big will that spindly three-foot sapling be in 30 or 40 years?  Is an oak or a willow, either very large when fully grown, the best tree for a small front lawn in a city?  On a large suburban lot, on the other hand, will a single small tree or bush be lost in a vast expanse of lawn?

A crucial factor to consider is proximity to buildings, sidewalks, driveways, streets, utility lines, overhead and buried, and septic systems.  Trees spread out both above and below ground and branch overhang and root growth can cause considerable damage and incur considerable expense if a tree is poorly situated. Consider the planting location with respect to foundation, concrete and asphalt structures,  and drainage structures.

Trees can play an important role in climate control. Deciduous trees planted on the south, west and east perimeters of a lot will provide shade during the summer while allowing scarce sunlight through in the winter when leaves have fallen. Evergreens, on the other hand, planted on the north and west sides of a property, can reduce winter heating costs by serving as windbreaks.

Drainage is yet another issue to consider. Young trees do best when planted in good-quality, well-drained loamy soil. Heavy clays in poorly-drained sites present particular problems as many species of trees including white firs, yellowwoods, beeches, red oaks and yews will not tolerate ‘wet feet.’ In all cases, stagnant water pooling around roots can lead to ‘root rot’ caused by lack of available oxygen. 

You can do a general test for soil drainage by digging a hole in the planting area and filling it with water. If the water hasn’t drained away in a couple of hours, drainage may be an issue. In areas where drainage is a particular problem, planting in raised beds of 12 to 18 inches of well-drained quality topsoil may be a solution.

 

Soil quality in new subdivisions often presents tree-planting problems. Construction materials, in addition to creating unsightly and difficult-to-work rubble, can alter the soils fertility by raising or lowering pH. Chemical and petroleum spills, which often occur during building construction, pose additional concerns. In cases where soil contamination is severe, the only solution may be to scrape away the contaminated soil and replace it with good quality topsoil at a depth associated with your planting objectives.

Personal taste is another key consideration. Think of how different kinds of new trees can enhance the attractiveness of your property. Make a list of the kinds of trees you admire and think about how they would look. Consider how your selection will fill in to the planting area over time. Make a few sketches or, if you don’t trust your own artistic talent, consult available landscape design software, or a landscape designer.

Types of Trees

 

Balled and Burlapped

Container- Grown

Bare Root

Trees purchased from wholesale and retail nurseries and garden supply stores generally come in one of three forms:

Balled and Burlapped
The roots of the tree and the ball of soil containing the roots are bound in burlap.

Container-Grown
The plant is sold in the container in which it was grown.

Bare-Rooted
The plant is sold with the roots exposed.  Not very common with trees.

When to Plant Trees

Climate plays a deciding role when determining the appropriate planting time.  Newly planted trees do best when exposed to moderate temperature and rainfall and they need time to root and acclimatize before the onset of intense heat and dryness of summer or the freezing temperatures of winter. Spring and early fall, therefore, are generally the best planting seasons (depending on your location) with spring preferred over fall in the more northerly latitudes.  In the southern United States, however, which do not experience an intense winter, planting can take place during the winter months.

How to Plant a Tree

While planting each of these different types of trees differs in the details, all trees eventually end up in a hole. But not any old hole will do. The most common mistake when planting a tree is a digging hole, which is both too deep and too narrow.  Too deep and the roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth.  Too narrow and the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree. As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown.  The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees.  This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself. When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’.  Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing.  To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the centre bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area.  This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone. Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees. Balled and burlapped (B & B) trees, although best planted as soon as possible, can be stored for some time after purchase as long as the ball is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady area.  B & B trees should always be lifted by the ball, never by the trunk.  The burlap surrounding the ball of earth and roots should either be cut away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap) or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of natural burlap).  Any string or twine should also be removed.  Backfill soil (combinations of peat moss, composted manure, topsoil, etc.) is then placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the ball or slightly lower to allow for some settling.  Be careful not to compress the back fill soil as this may prevent water from reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball. Planting Container Trees. Container trees (though subject to greater heat and drying conditions than B and B) can also be stored for a brief period of time after purchase as long as the soil in the container is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady spot.  The procedure for planting container trees is similar to that for B & B trees.  In the case of metal or plastic containers, remove the container completely.  In the case of fibre containers, tear the sides away. Once carefully removed from the container, check the roots.  If they are tightly compressed or ‘potbound’, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting.  In the case of extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of the root system.  The root system is then pulled apart or ‘butterflied’ prior to planting.  Loosening the root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants.  Failure to do so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container.  To further assist this, lightly break up even the soil outside the planting zone.  This allows roots that quickly move out of the planting zone to be more resilient as they anchor into existing surrounding soil conditions. Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container.  Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it with your feet.  Compress gently using your hands instead. Planting Bare-Rooted Trees. Planting bare-rooted trees is a little different as there is no soil surrounding the roots.  Most importantly, the time between purchase and planting is a more critical issue.  Plant as soon as possible.  When purchasing bare-rooted trees, inspect the roots to ensure that they are moist and have numerous lengths of fine root hairs (healthy).  Care should be taken to ensure that the roots are kept moist in the period between purchase and planting.  Prune broken or damaged roots but save as much of the root structure as you can. To plant, first build a cone of earth in the centre of the hole around which to splay the roots.  Make sure that when properly seated on this cone the tree is planted so that the ‘trunk flare’ is clearly visible and the ‘crown’, where the roots and top meet, is about two inches above the soil level.  This is to allow for natural settling.

 

 Water, Mulch and Fertilizer

 

Watering

Newly planted trees should be watered at the time of planting. In addition, during the first growing season, they should be watered at least once a week in the absence of rain, more often during the height of the summer. However, care should be taken not to overwater as this may result in oxygen deprivation.

If you are uncertain as to whether a tree needs watering, dig down 6-8 inches at the edge of the planting hole. If the soil at that depth feels powdery or crumbly, the tree needs water. Adequately moistened soil should form a ball when squeezed.

Regular deep soakings are better than frequent light wettings. Moisture should reach a depth of 12 to 18 inches below the soil surface to encourage ideal root growth.

One new way to ensure a constant supply of moisture is through the use of superabsorbent polymer crystals that absorb moisture when the surrounding soil is moist, and release it again when the soil dries out. 

Mulching

To conserve moisture and promote water and air penetration, the back filled soil surrounding newly-planted trees can be covered with mulch consisting of material such as bark, wood chips or pine needles (although the acidity associated with pine needles is not suited for many plants). Mulch depth should be between 3 to 4 inches. Do not, under any circumstances, cover the area surrounding the tree with plastic sheeting since air and water movement are prevented. Porous landscape fabric can be used since it freely allows water and air penetration.

Fertilizer

 

Since all soils have a history, it can be beneficial to get soil analyzed properly for macronutrients such as Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K), micronutrients, pH, soil type, and drainage. Although many trees survive without fertilizer at time of planting, the majority of plants suffer root loss and stress associated with movement between ideal nursery grown conditions and the final planting.  

To compensate for root loss during planting and to alleviate transplant shock, treat your trees with mycorrhizal fungi and fertilizers with the right formulation for the type of tree you are planting.  A biostimulant can also aid in root development and general tree health.

Staking and Guy-Wiring

 

Young trees should be able to support their own weight, but when they are transplanted, they often need time to reestablish themselves.  Also, many nurseries plant their trees very close together to maximize use of space and stake them to promote height growth at the expense of trunk strength.  When shopping for trees, look for trees with branches all along the trunk - not just at the top.

Once a tree is planted, it will concentrate its energy on standing upright.  If it is unable to do so, try thinning out the upper branches to reduce wind resistance.  If that is not enough and you find you have to stake a tree, remember the following"

1. Only stake the tree long enough for it to be able stand on its own. 

2.  Stakes should not be too tight - there should be room for the tree to sway in the wind.

3. Stakes should not be too loose - the tree should not rub against the stakes.

4. Stakes should be buried at least 1.5 feet underground to provide ample support.

Wrapping and Pruning

 

Wrapping

 

Wrapping refers to the technique of winding a crepe-type paper around the barks of trees. Generally speaking, you only need to consider doing this in the northern United States and Canada to prevent the ‘sun-scalding’ of thin-barked trees like soft maples and crabapples during the first one or two winters after planting. Commercial tree-wrap is sold at nurseries and in garden-supply stores. To wrap a tree, start at the bottom and wind the paper around the tree to the level of the second branch. Fasten the paper at the top with a tack. Don’t forget to remove the wrapping each spring to prevent moisture buildup, disease and insect infestation.

Pruning

 

Use restraint when pruning your newly-planted trees. Prune only to remove damaged or broken branches. Do not prune the top of the tree as this may alter the structure of the tree excessively (check species requirements) and may hamper carbohydrate production.  Do not paint the cuts with compounds (e.g. Latex) that prevent air from accessing the wound, thereby slowing the healing process.

Transplanting Trees

 

There is always danger in moving plant material from one location to another.  Root material is sacrificed, and depending on the previous state of the plant, this can be a severe stress.   If necessary, it is possible to transplant trees from one area of your property to another. The key lies in ensuring that the tree to be transplanted has a good healthy root ball and that the tree and ball together are not unmanageably heavy.

•  Start by tying the branches together loosely.

•  Then dig a two-foot deep trench around the tree at least one foot larger than the size of the root ball (or as much intact viable root material as practical). Once the trench is dug, undercut around the shrub. Carefully prune the roots extending from the ball as you dig down.

•  When the ball is partially exposed, begin to wrap the ball in burlap starting from the base of the tree down using twine to secure the wrapping. Keep digging until the ball is undercut and sitting on a soil pedestal.

•  Then carefully tilt the tree and ball and finish wrapping and securing the burlap underneath.

•  Then carefully tilt the tree and ball and finish wrapping and securing the burlap underneath.

To help your tree establish itself when transplanted, treat the planting area with mycorrhizal fungi, a specially formulated fertilizer and biostimulant.

The do-it-yourself approach is useful only for small trees. For large trees, hire a professional who has the specialized equipment and knowledge to do the job safely.

 Conclusion

Well that wasn’t so difficult, was it?  Now all you have to do is remember that it can take a year or more for newly planted trees to adjust to their new surroundings.  During that time, you should make sure that they are receiving sufficient water.  In some cases, you may want to fertilize as necessary.